100 Tomato

The Definitive Compendium for Cultivating and Utilizing '100' Tomatoes

A Comprehensive Guide to Maximizing Your Harvest of Super Sweet 100 Tomatoes

From my experience, mastering the art of growing the renowned '100' tomato varieties is a pursuit that rewards diligence with an unparalleled bounty. I do not just grow these plants; I immerse myself in every detail of their lifecycle, from the delicate germination of a single seed to the final, sweet burst of flavor in a finished dish. I recommend this guide as your singular resource for achieving a harvest so prolific it will make others take notice. We will delve into the intricacies of soil science, the nuances of hydration, and the strategic defense against pests and diseases that can undermine a season's hard work. This is not a superficial overview; this is a deep dive into the cultivation of one of the most rewarding and beloved cherry tomato varieties in existence.

Understanding the '100' Tomato: A Tale of Two Varieties

Before we embark on our journey, it is critical to distinguish between the two primary cultivars that fall under the '100' moniker: the Sweet 100 and its modern successor, the Super Sweet 100. While often used interchangeably, these are distinct plants with their own unique characteristics and growing profiles. The original Sweet 100, first introduced in the mid20th century, established the reputation for incredible sweetness and production. Its indeterminate vines can produce clusters of a dozen or more brilliant red, halfounce fruits. The Super Sweet 100, a hybrid, was bred to offer enhanced disease resistance, particularly against fusarium wilt and verticillium wilt. It is a more vigorous plant, with even longer fruitbearing trusses, and is known for a slightly more robust, less delicate flavor. For the purposes of this guide, the cultural practices for both are largely similar, but we will highlight where their specific needs may diverge. From my experience, understanding which variety you are growing is the first step to successful cultivation.

The Foundational Elements: Soil and Site Selection

The success of your '100' tomato plants hinges almost entirely on the quality of your soil and the location you choose for planting. We cannot overstate the importance of these foundational elements. I recommend a deep, fertile, and welldrained soil that is rich in organic matter. A slightly acidic pH, ideally between 6.0 and 6.8, is optimal. We believe in proactive soil management, which means performing a soil test before you plant. This gives you a precise roadmap for amending your soil with the necessary nutrients. Incorporate a generous amount of wellcomposted organic matter, such as compost or wellaged manure, to improve soil structure, water retention, and nutrient availability. Raised beds are an excellent option for '100' tomatoes as they warm up faster in the spring, provide superior drainage, and allow for easier control of the soil composition. In terms of location, these plants are sunworshippers. They require a minimum of 6 to 8 hours of direct, full sunlight per day to produce a prolific harvest. Planting them away from trees and large shrubs minimizes competition for water and nutrients.

Advanced Soil Amendments and PrePlanting Preparation

To give your '100' tomato plants the best possible start, we advocate for a meticulous preplanting routine. From my experience, this preparation phase is where we can make the most significant impact on the plant's future health and productivity. Once your soil pH is confirmed, we suggest incorporating a balanced fertilizer with a higher phosphorus content, such as a 101010 or a slowrelease granular blend. For an organic approach, we recommend a mix of blood meal (for nitrogen), bone meal (for phosphorus), and kelp meal (for potassium and essential trace minerals). I do not just sprinkle these on the surface; I work them into the top 6 to 8 inches of the soil to ensure the nutrients are available to the developing root systems. We also find that adding a small amount of Epsom salt (magnesium sulfate) to the planting hole can promote stronger cell development and better fruit set, particularly in magnesiumdeficient soils. The day before planting, we thoroughly water the prepared bed to ensure the soil is moist but not waterlogged. This meticulous preparation prevents transplant shock and sets the stage for explosive growth.

Planting and Early Growth: Nurturing Your Seedlings

The moment of transplanting is a delicate but crucial step. We recommend planting your '100' tomato seedlings deeper than they were in their nursery pots. As indeterminate varieties, they will form new roots along the buried stem. This process, known as adventitious rooting, creates a stronger, more stable plant with a more extensive root system capable of drawing in more water and nutrients. If your seedling is "leggy" or has a long stem, you can gently pinch off the lower leaves and bury up to twothirds of the stem horizontally in a trench, with the remaining top portion angled upward. Space plants 24 to 36 inches apart to ensure adequate air circulation and to prevent the spread of fungal diseases. After planting, we water each seedling with a mild starter solution to provide an immediate nutrient boost. We do not just water; we ensure the entire root ball is saturated and the surrounding soil is settled firmly around it.

Watering and Irrigation: The Art of Consistency

Watering is, without a doubt, one of the most critical factors for '100' tomato plant health and fruit quality. We recommend a consistent, deep watering schedule. Irregular watering is the single biggest cause of problems, including blossom end rot and fruit cracking. We believe in applying 1 to 2 inches of water per week, adjusting for rainfall and temperature. Drip irrigation is the superior method for watering these plants. It delivers water directly to the root zone, minimizes evaporation, and, most importantly, keeps the foliage dry. Wet leaves are an invitation for a host of fungal diseases, so we avoid overhead watering, especially late in the day. We also apply a generous layer of organic mulch (such as straw, shredded leaves, or wood chips) around the base of the plants once the soil has warmed. This mulch layer helps conserve moisture, suppress weeds, and regulate soil temperature, creating a stable and favorable environment for the roots. It is a simple yet profoundly effective practice that we do without fail every season.

Fertilization Throughout the Season: Fueling a Prolific Harvest

Because '100' tomatoes are incredibly productive, they are also heavy feeders. We recommend a phased approach to fertilization to meet their changing needs throughout the growing season. Early in the season, during the vegetative growth phase, we focus on a balanced fertilizer to promote strong stem and leaf development. However, once the plant begins to flower and set fruit, we shift our focus to a fertilizer with a lower nitrogen ratio and a higher phosphorus and potassium content. A fertilizer with an NPK ratio like 51010 or 585 is ideal for this fruiting phase. We believe in sidedressing with fertilizer every 3 to 4 weeks. We do not just sprinkle; we gently scratch the fertilizer into the soil around the drip line of the plant, being careful not to disturb the roots, and then water it in thoroughly. For those who prefer a liquid feed, we recommend applying a diluted solution of fish emulsion or a balanced organic liquid fertilizer every two weeks. From my experience, a little goes a long way, and overfertilizing with nitrogen can lead to lush, leafy plants with very little fruit, a common mistake we help our clients avoid.

Supporting the Vine: Staking and Caging for Success

The indeterminate nature of '100' tomato vines means they will continue to grow, blossom, and produce fruit until they are killed by frost. Without proper support, their delicate stems and heavy fruit clusters will sprawl across the ground, leading to diseases and damaged fruit. We recommend providing a robust support system from the moment you transplant. We prefer tall, sturdy tomato cages made from concrete reinforcing wire or the Florida weave method using stakes and twine. We do not use the flimsy, small cages sold at most garden centers; they are simply inadequate for these vigorous plants. Single staking is another option, but we find it requires more frequent pruning and tying. The goal is to keep the foliage and fruit off the ground, promoting better air circulation and easier harvesting. We do this religiously, tying the main stem to the support structure every 8 to 12 inches as it grows. This single practice is a gamechanger for preventing disease and maximizing yield.

Pest and Disease Management: Proactive Defense Strategies

A healthy '100' tomato plant is inherently more resistant to pests and diseases, but we must be prepared for the inevitable challenges that arise. We recommend an integrated pest management (IPM) approach that focuses on prevention and early intervention. We do not just react; we monitor our plants daily for any signs of trouble. Common pests include tomato hornworms, aphids, and spider mites. We believe in using beneficial insects like ladybugs and lacewings as our first line of defense. For more serious infestations, we recommend targeted applications of neem oil or insecticidal soap. We do not use harsh chemical pesticides that can harm beneficial insects and the environment. When it comes to diseases, Early Blight, Late Blight, and Septoria Leaf Spot are the most common threats. These are often caused by fungi and thrive in cool, wet conditions. Our primary defense is cultural: we practice crop rotation, ensure proper plant spacing, and use our drip irrigation to keep the foliage dry. If a fungal disease appears, we recommend prompt removal of infected leaves and, if necessary, an application of a copperbased fungicide or a homemade baking soda spray. From my experience, a clean and wellmaintained garden is the best defense against disease.

Harvesting Your Bounty: The Sweet Reward

The best part of growing '100' tomatoes is the harvest. We recommend picking the fruit when it is a rich, vibrant red and feels firm to the touch. The '100' varieties are known for their sugar content, and a fully ripened fruit will have the most intense flavor. We do not pull the tomatoes off the vine; we use a sharp pair of scissors or garden snips to clip the cluster from the stem, leaving a small piece of the stem attached. This prevents damage to the delicate skin of the fruit and prolongs its shelf life. We believe in harvesting frequently, often every day or two, to encourage the plant to produce more. This also prevents the fruit from becoming overripe and splitting on the vine. From my experience, a ripe '100' tomato is a perfect snack right off the vine, but we will explore a wide range of culinary uses in the next section.

Beyond the Vine: Culinary Uses and Nutritional Benefits

The '100' tomato is a culinary chameleon. Its small size, high sugar content, and juicy texture make it incredibly versatile. We do not just eat them fresh; we incorporate them into a myriad of dishes. They are the perfect addition to a Caprese salad, paired with fresh mozzarella and basil, and drizzled with a highquality balsamic glaze. Their small size makes them ideal for roasting whole with a drizzle of olive oil, garlic, and herbs, creating a delicious and simple side dish. We also believe in the power of preserving the harvest. Canning, freezing, and dehydrating are all excellent ways to extend the season's bounty. The health benefits of '100' tomatoes are as impressive as their flavor. They are an excellent source of Vitamin C, Vitamin K, and potassium. Most notably, they are packed with lycopene, a powerful antioxidant that gives tomatoes their red color and has been linked to a reduced risk of certain cancers and improved heart health. From my experience, a diet rich in these small but mighty fruits is a cornerstone of a healthy lifestyle.

Troubleshooting Common Problems: A Guide to Resilience

Even the most experienced gardener will face challenges. We believe that understanding how to troubleshoot is a key part of the journey. If you see yellowing leaves, it could be a sign of a nutrient deficiency (often nitrogen) or overwatering. We recommend checking the soil moisture and, if needed, applying a balanced liquid fertilizer. Blossom end rot, characterized by a dark, leathery spot on the bottom of the fruit, is a classic sign of a calcium deficiency exacerbated by inconsistent watering. We do not just blame the soil; we look at our watering habits first. If the problem persists, we recommend a foliar spray of a calcium solution. Sunscald, or white, leathery patches on the fruit, is a sign of too much direct sun exposure on exposed fruit. We recommend ensuring your plants are properly caged or staked to provide enough leaf cover. From my experience, a little detective work can solve most gardening problems and prevent them from becoming a major issue.

Advanced Cultivation Techniques: Going from Good to Great

For the gardener who wants to push the boundaries of their harvest, we recommend a few advanced techniques. Pruning is a great way to manage growth and improve air circulation. While some gardeners avoid it with indeterminate varieties, we believe in removing the small side shoots or "suckers" that grow in the crotch of the stems. This directs the plant's energy into the main stem and fruit production. We also find that succession planting, or staggering the planting of new seedlings every few weeks, ensures a continuous harvest throughout the entire season. We believe that incorporating companion plants is a powerful organic strategy. Planting basil near your tomatoes can deter pests like tomato hornworms and enhance the tomato's flavor. Marigolds are known to repel nematodes, and nasturtiums can attract aphids away from your tomato plants. From my experience, these simple, synergistic relationships in the garden can lead to a healthier and more productive crop.

The Science of Flavor: Why Your '100' Tomatoes Taste So Good

The exceptional flavor of '100' tomatoes is not a coincidence; it is a result of their genetic makeup and the environmental conditions we provide. We believe that the balance of sugar and acidity is what makes a great tomato. '100' tomatoes have a high sugar content, but they also maintain enough acidity to create that perfect, balanced flavor profile. The amount of sunlight they receive directly impacts the sugar production in the leaves, which is then transported to the fruit. This is why we stress the importance of a fullsun location. The availability of nutrients, particularly potassium, plays a crucial role in fruit development and flavor. Potassium helps regulate water movement within the plant and is vital for the ripening process. From my experience, a wellfed plant in a sunny location will produce a tomato that is infinitely more flavorful than anything you can buy in a store.

A YearRound Commitment: From Seed to Sauce

Our commitment to '100' tomatoes extends far beyond the summer harvest. We believe in a yearround approach to gardening. This starts with seed saving from your bestperforming plants, ensuring you have a genetic foundation for the next season. It continues with soil building in the fall and winter, adding cover crops and organic matter to prepare the ground for the following year. And it culminates in the use of every single fruit, from a simple snack to a complex sauce. We do not waste a single tomato. We have developed a series of recipes that highlight the best of the '100' tomato, from fresh salsas and salads to rich, slowroasted sauces and sundried tomatoes. From my experience, this complete cycle, from the moment you sow the seed to the moment you enjoy the last jar of sauce in the middle of winter, is what makes growing these tomatoes a truly rewarding and fulfilling experience. It is a testament to our belief that highquality food, and the knowledge to produce it, is one of the most valuable resources we can possess.

Conclusion: Your Pathway to '100' Tomato Mastery

We have laid out a comprehensive roadmap for achieving an unparalleled harvest of '100' tomatoes. We believe that by focusing on superior soil quality, consistent and deep watering, strategic fertilization, robust support systems, and proactive pest and disease management, you will unlock the full potential of these remarkable plants. We do not just provide information; we provide a philosophy of gardening that is rooted in precision, attention to detail, and a deep respect for the natural world. I recommend that you print this guide and keep it with you as you work in your garden. I do this myself, constantly refining my process and learning from every season. From my experience, the journey to becoming a '100' tomato master is one of the most rewarding endeavors in gardening. We are confident that by following this definitive guide, you will outrank the competition in your own garden and enjoy a harvest that is not only abundant but also incredibly delicious and nutritious.