Super sweet 100

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I do believe its name says it all. This plant is a prolific producer, known for its long, cascading trusses that are absolutely laden with vibrant, bitesized fruit. I recommend this variety for both novice gardeners and seasoned veterans alike because it consistently delivers an abundant harvest of tomatoes that are, as its name suggests, incredibly sweet and bursting with flavor. The secret to its success lies not only in its taste but also in its vigorous growth habit and relative resistance to common tomato ailments.

The Super Sweet 100 is not just a plant; it's a testament to the joy of gardening. Imagine stepping out into your garden on a warm summer day and plucking a handful of these rubyred gems straight from the vine. The flavor is a perfect balance of sugary sweetness with just a hint of tang, making them ideal for snacking, salads, or even simple sauces. This guide will walk you through every step of the process, from choosing the right seeds to harvesting your bountiful crop.

We've Mastered the Art: A Comprehensive Guide to Growing Super Sweet 100 Tomatoes

We Begin at the Beginning: Choosing and Starting Your Seeds

To achieve the best possible harvest, we believe that the journey begins long before the first sprout emerges. We recommend starting your Super Sweet 100 seeds indoors, typically 68 weeks before the last expected frost date in your region. This gives the seedlings a robust head start, ensuring they are strong and ready for transplanting when the weather warms up. We prefer to use a highquality, sterile seedstarting mix, which provides the necessary drainage and nutrients without the risk of disease.

We sow the seeds about a quarter of an inch deep in individual cells or small pots. Once the seeds are in place, we gently water the soil, being careful not to dislodge them. The key to successful germination is maintaining a consistent temperature and moisture level. We find that a heat mat placed under the seed trays can significantly speed up the process, as tomatoes thrive in warm conditions. We cover the trays with a clear plastic dome or wrap to create a minigreenhouse effect, trapping humidity and heat.

The Critical Phase: Nurturing Your Super Sweet 100 Seedlings

Once the seeds have germinated and the first true leaves appear, we remove the plastic dome. At this stage, light becomes the single most important factor. We insist on providing our seedlings with at least 1216 hours of light per day. We prefer to use grow lights, positioned just a few inches above the tops of the plants. This prevents the seedlings from becoming "leggy," or long and spindly, as they stretch for light. A strong, compact seedling with a sturdy stem is the foundation of a healthy, productive plant.

We also begin a light fertilization regimen at this point. We use a diluted, balanced liquid fertilizer, applying it every two weeks or so. We are meticulous about not overfertilizing, as this can lead to weak, rapid growth that is susceptible to disease. We also make sure the seedlings have good air circulation, which we accomplish with a small fan. This gentle breeze not only strengthens the stems but also helps to prevent fungal diseases like dampingoff.

The Great Transition: Hardening Off and Transplanting

Transplanting a seedling directly from the indoor environment to the great outdoors can be a shock to its system. We have learned that the process of hardening off is absolutely crucial. We begin this process about a week before the final transplanting date. We do this by gradually introducing the seedlings to outdoor conditions, starting with just an hour or two in a shaded, protected location. We increase the duration and sunlight exposure each day, ensuring the plants become acclimated to the wind, sun, and temperature fluctuations.

When we transplant the seedlings into their final home, we are careful to choose a location with full sun—a minimum of 68 hours per day is nonnegotiable for these sunloving plants. The soil must be welldraining and rich in organic matter. We amend our garden beds with compost or aged manure to provide a fertile foundation for the plants to thrive. We dig a hole deep enough to bury a portion of the stem, as tomatoes have the unique ability to grow new roots from the buried part of the stem. We space the plants about 2436 inches apart to ensure good air circulation and to give them ample room to grow.

The Maintenance Phase: Watering, Fertilizing, and Pruning

Once our Super Sweet 100 plants are in the ground, our attention shifts to providing consistent care. We understand that consistent watering is paramount. We aim for deep, infrequent watering rather than shallow, frequent watering. This encourages the roots to grow deeper, making the plant more resilient to drought and reducing the risk of blossom end rot. We water at the base of the plant to keep the foliage dry, which helps prevent fungal diseases.

We also continue our fertilization program, transitioning to a fertilizer that is lower in nitrogen and higher in phosphorus and potassium once the plants begin to flower. This shift in nutrients encourages fruit production rather than excessive leafy growth.

Pruning is another key practice we employ to maximize our harvest. As a vining, indeterminate variety, the Super Sweet 100 will continue to grow and produce fruit until it is killed by frost. We prune the "suckers"—the small shoots that grow in the crotch between the main stem and a leaf branch. This redirects the plant's energy into the main stem and fruit production. We also remove any yellowing or diseased lower leaves to improve air circulation and prevent the spread of disease. We are also careful to provide strong support, such as a tall stake or a sturdy tomato cage, as these plants can grow quite large and heavy with fruit.

We Conquer Common Problems: Pests and Diseases

Even with the best care, we know that pests and diseases can still be a concern. We are vigilant in our approach to integrated pest management (IPM). This means we are constantly monitoring our plants for signs of trouble. We are firm believers in a proactive approach, rather than a reactive one.

Hornworms: We handpick these large, destructive caterpillars off the plants as soon as we see them. Their excellent camouflage can make them difficult to spot, so we look for their telltale droppings and signs of chewed leaves.

Aphids: We tackle these tiny insects with a strong spray of water from the hose or with an insecticidal soap solution. We also encourage beneficial insects like ladybugs, which are natural predators of aphids.

Early Blight: This fungal disease often appears as yellowing leaves with dark spots on the lower parts of the plant. We combat this by ensuring good air circulation, watering at the base of the plant, and promptly removing any infected leaves. We also apply a fungicide if the problem persists.

Blossom End Rot: This is a physiological disorder, not a disease, caused by a calcium deficiency in the fruit. We prevent this by providing consistent, deep watering and ensuring our soil has adequate calcium. We also avoid highnitrogen fertilizers.

The Sweet Reward: Harvesting Your Bountiful Crop

The moment we've all been waiting for is when those vibrant, red globes are ready for harvest. We know the tomatoes are ripe when they have a uniform, deep red color and feel slightly firm but give a little when gently squeezed. We pick the entire truss or individual tomatoes as they ripen. The more you pick, the more the plant will produce. We love the continuous nature of the Super Sweet 100, which provides us with fresh, delicious tomatoes all summer long, right up until the first frost.

From our experience, we can confidently say that growing the Super Sweet 100 is one of the most rewarding gardening experiences we have. We hope this comprehensive guide inspires you to plant this incredible variety and enjoy the sweet rewards of your labor.